The Devil Is in the Detail

She’s the award-winning costume designer behind some of television and film’s most-talked-about projects and looks. From the red, velvet ensemble of Lady Danbury in Bridgerton to the gold angel wings worn by Felix in Saltburn, for costume designer Sophie Canale, the devil is in the detail. Speaking to Remix, Canale credits her love for people and their quirks as the secret to her success and reveals her dream guest list for her own Saltburn Manor party — spoiler, her best mate Dave makes the cut.

Via David Ruiz

You’ve designed costumes for one of television’s most treasured series, Bridgerton, and now you’re working on the new BBC series Dope Girls which follows the birth of the female-led, Soho nightlife scene post-WWI. Both series are known for not being the most historically accurate. Do you find not having a solid reference point harder when creating looks or do you relish in the creative freedom?

I’m a costume designer who has built a career on not being period-correct. I like the discipline of all the research and grounding myself with the knowledge before opening up that freedom of inspiration — whether that’s looking at catwalks or contemporary art and fabrics. On my most recent project DopeGirls, which is set in 1918, I used the silhouette of the period as inspiration, utilising bohemian fabrics and prints to set the scene whilst being aware of the fabrics that would have been available at the time. I’m lucky that I’m able to work with incredible women who like to push the boundaries, like Australian director Shannon Murphy (Dope Girls, Killing Eve) and filmmaker/writer Emerald Fennell (Promising Young Woman, Saltburn). But we still convey a level of period-correct grounding so the audience has something to reference while still having fun with looks! 

Via Pinterest

I saw those first-look images from Dope Girls and spotted that exaggerated gold-pointed bra on Billie Cassidy’s character! What's the story behind this look?

That’s inspired by an outfit worn by American-born French dancer Josephine Baker, who rose to fame in the 1930s. So, although Dope Girls is set a little earlier, the dance sequences in the series are experimental and liberal for the time. We looked at tinted photographs of the era and chose a colour palette of eccentric, warm punches to convey that bohemian feel of the gritty and illicit Soho nightlife.

Via Pinterest

You’re famed for your meticulous attention to detail and character development through the art of costume. Can you share a story behind a key Bridgerton look for the Remix readers?

On Edwina’s wedding day, the scene is very much from Anthony’s perspective. He sees Kate (her sister) in a wedding dress and visualises her in Edwina's place. Although made from the same fabric, Kate’s dress was lower in the neckline and shorter in the sleeve — it’s sexier than Edwina’s dress as we needed to convey his lust for her over Edwina. The devil is in the details. Just look at Felix in Saltburn at the Midsummer Night’s Dream party. He’s wearing jeans and a vest top because why should he have to make an effort for anyone, he’s not bothered. The reason I create costumes is for the people — I am fascinated by them and I want to show their specific nuances through those minor details that are often overlooked. Everything means something in the world of costume design.

Speaking of Saltburn, if you could wear the wardrobe of one character on set, who would it be?

Pamela (Carey Mulligan’s character).

And off-set? We’re personally big fans of Jacob’s man bag collection...

I’d have to say...Rosamund.

If you were hosting your own Saltburn party, which five guests, dead or alive, would you invite?

Oh gosh! I would go with Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Miriam Margolyes, Debbie Harry and my best mate Dave.

We’ve seen so many people replicating your costumes for Saltburn-themed parties. How does it feel seeing your designs loved and recognised by so many?

I remember going to a film festival that Saltburn opened for and as I got out of the car, someone in the crowd was wearing antlers. Charlotte, the assistant designer, and I just looked at each other and said, “wow”. It’s so surreal!

Via Sophie Canale

You’ve become quite renowned for your Easter eggs within costumes—what’s one hidden message in a Saltburn outfit you think fans would be surprised to learn?

At the Midsummer Night’s Dream party, Venetia wears a black dress with a crystal overlay shaped into a spider’s web, which depicts her stuck in a web of lies. Similarly, Oliver’s two-piece has moths hidden within the embroidery and we all know that Felix is the moth to his flame — he even wears a tiny moth on his necklace.

Via Sophie Canale

I hear you used real-life Facebook photos from 2006 as your mood board for Saltburn. Have you heard that Gen Z is bringing back digital cameras? And yes, in that bright pink colour...

Gosh! Back then, we called my friend Emma the paparazzi as she took and uploaded hundreds of photographs to Facebook every time we went out. But for Saltburn, those images were a great resource and reference for me as they showed the reality of that no-holds-barred digital period. I needed a mood board that wasn’t picture-perfect or clean-cut to showcase my vision and relive that era most authentically.

Are there any looks from 2006 you’re hoping to keep hidden in the image folder archives?

The useless belt! What was I thinking?!

Were you prepared for the *ahem* interesting scenes in Saltburn?

It’s funny that the scenes where he’s not wearing much are the ones that get people talking!