How street-style photographer Kate Hill spends fashion week in London and Paris
For London-based Kiwi fashion photographer Kate Hill, fashion week is just another day in the office. But unlike most of us, Kate’s office is outside some of the biggest runways of the season, capturing what the style set are wearing this season. From her home turf in London to the romance of Paris, here’s how she spent fashion month this year.
All images courtesy of @katejadehill
What were some of your favourite fashion moments of London and Paris this year?
Dior was pretty special, the lighting was beautiful. There was an essence of old meets new. The classic Dior fashion was juxtaposed by loud warrior-inspired dressing, with a nod to Renaissance and Victorian-like dressing. It’s always one of the first big shows to open Paris so everyone is fresh faced and excited! Each show brings something unique, and the guests reflect and encompass the attitude and aesthetic of each brand or house. For example, The Row offered quiet minimalism, as guests cautiously arrived and seemed almost camera shy. Whereas Acne was high energy, playful and boisterous. No show is ever the same, the energy and fashion reflect this attitude. I did have my eye on the Ganni trench, which was popular amongst many guests arriving at the venue. You can never look past a good coat!
Do you have a favourite? What makes the two so different for you?
London is familiar and my home, so it’s always a bit more social and relaxed. You see the same street photographers season on season, so there is that sense of community. However, the classic English weather can often lower morale slightly when it’s cold and rainy. From a photography POV, there is more street style etiquette in London than in Paris, which makes for a nice and more relaxed shooting environment. Guests alike give a sense of familiarity and excitement. London Fashion Weeks have changed even over the past couple of years, but I think that a new wave of designers coming through will breathe a fresh perspective and bring life back into the week.
In terms of street style, there is a clear difference between London and Paris. London’s has more of a grunge feel than Paris fashion, being home to some of the largest Maisons in the world, which is reflected in how you stereotypically think a Parisian would dress. If I had to pick—Paris is always so magical. I am biased because it is my favourite city! The city itself is such a stunning backdrop to shoot street on. It’s influential, contemporary yet holds so much history and this is totally reflected in the style you see on the street. Paris is iconically chaotic, but that spontaneity is where the magic is captured.
What does a typical day look like at fashion month?
The days are long. Typically you’re waking up very, packing your kit for the day, and heading to the first show which starts around 9 or 10 am. Depending on what or who I’m shooting for depends on how heavy or light I pack my kit. Sometimes I’ll need extra lenses, flash, and equipment if I know I’ll be out all day shooting at various shows into the evenings. I'll typically pack my laptop to edit on the go, in between shows, and turn around imagery at pace.
For street, I’ll aim to arrive anywhere from an hour to 45 minutes before a show, which gives me enough time to scope out where guests will arrive, and get familiar with the layout for entrances and exits. I ideally like to capture arrivals over exits as guests are normally rushing back to back with tight schedules to get to the next show. I also have to move on to the next show! My daily schedule differs, depending on what shows are on, and what content I need to turn around. I’ll always aim to go to as many shows as possible, but sometimes when I shoot a really fun and good show and I’m content with the shots, I’m happy to call it for an early(ish) night. I think people think that you just shoot and it’s done! But when you’re at multiple shows every day, you have to sort through thousands of images and edit, then send off content to brands and talent with tight deadlines. Normally, days at fashion weeks from end to end average around 15 hours, but there’s always time to stop for coffee and fresh croissants when passing local boutiques! <3
Where are some of your favourite places to go during Paris Fashion Week?
OMG! The list is endless…. Every time I visit Paris I fall in love with a new spot! I’m SUCH a foodie, and there’s no better way to explore a city, than eating your way through it. @lefavoriparis is the most perfect sandwich shop, enough said. Coffee shops in Paris are elite too, like @cafe_berry_paris_ @bonjourjacob_ and @labaguettedurelais does a steak frites meets baguette—an illegal combo. The best wine bar in Paris is easily @lesoeillets.paris and @bibineclub is a super cool spot for any time of day, really. At night locals hang out on the street drinking orange wine, smoking vogues, speaking French… I think that trio might be my love language. For dinner spots, you really can’t go wrong with a classic French brasserie, but if you’re out of ideas, you should check out @alfred.paris @amagat_paris @chezjanou or @rorirorirorirorirori
What's the best way to spend a day in London?
This city is always buzzing, there’s always something new to do and explore. There are typical tourist spots, but let’s say it’s a beautiful (sunny, spring) Sunday in London. Here’s what I’d do with any friends or family visiting...
I live in Hackney so would normally venture to a local coffee shop and grab a croissant and coffee to start the day. @ozonecoffeeuk is here and my safe haven whenever I’m feeling homesick. There is also @allpressespressouk in Dalston for a mighty fine cuppa—another bit of familiarity with home. It’s not a typical Sunday without waiting in a line for some bread at the unhealthily famous @thedustyknuckle heading down for a canal walk (closest thing that offers a body of water), to Columbia Road Flower Market which happens every Sunday to pick yourself up a fresh bunch, then over to Broadway Market, where you can get the best, fresh food and offerings for a stellar market stall lunch. I’d then sit and eat this in London Fields away from the hustle and bustle of the street. Once lunch has digested, my guess is some sort of sport will be on at the pub, so I guess it’s pint time. I love a Sunday afternoon pint in the sun with my nearest and dearest as we wrap up the week and head into the next. If you’re feeling up for it, then it would be illegal for me not to suggest pub roast, but this is more for the winter, and in theory, now we’re in spring!
Trend forecasting: From what you saw across these two weeks, what are the big trends to watch out for?
There’s a real surge in suede. Nods to bohemian styled dressing, fringing, suede brown bags, oversized 70s jackets. When it comes to bags, large and in charge—the bigger the bag to carry all your shit in, the better. Last year the surge in football jerseys was unmatched. Now (I think thanks to Miu Miu) the rise in striped rugby sweatshirts is a recent trend I love. And beige suiting, jackets and trenches across fashion week will always be a winner heading into AW!