Inside Esther’s Crushed Grapes series with Sean Connolly
Introducing the Esther Crushed Grapes series curated by chef Sean Connolly and James Laird, where every second month features a celebrated winemaker sharing limited releases and the stories behind them. From Bilancia to Radburnd and Hans Herzog, these are the labels that have long graced Esther’s wine list — now brought to life in the restaurant. To delve deeper into the vision behind Crushed Grapes, Remix sat down with Sean Connolly ahead of the first pour.
Crushed Grapes is such a fresh take on the classic wine dinner. What inspired you to create a series that brings winemakers directly into Esther's kitchen?
Wine is such a fundamental part of dining. Each of the winemakers we have coming in for Crushed Grapes has a wine that has played a part in making Esther's wine list as special as it is, and runs their operations in a way I truly admire. They're all boutique labels, and the winemakers are absolute masters in their craft - so I wanted to give guests a peek behind the curtain, and share an intimate dinner hearing first hand what goes into bringing these drops to life.
Why do you think it’s important for Auckland’s dining scene to host events like Crushed Grapes, where boutique wines and innovative menus are celebrated together?
Absolutely - they go hand in hand, and I love being able to provide a platform for boutique wines to reach a new audience.
Lorraine Leheny and Warren Gibson from Bilancia are kicking things off with an Italian-inspired feast. What excites you most about their selection of wines for this night?
Bilancia is a small Hawke's Bay producer of exceptional wines, and they're renowned particularly for their Chardonnay and Syrah. We have three of their wines paired with Italian-inspired dishes - and I think guests will have a hard time picking a favourite.
What do you personally look for when choosing a boutique wine for a menu? Flavour profile, story, sustainability, or something else? It's a mix of those things - All the fundamentals of wine, like the flavour profile, are important, especially when we're looking at what dishes we're pairing it to. But ultimately it's the vibe - it's about the story of the vineyard, and the people behind it. Do we have the same values and philosophies?
You’ve worked across some incredible kitchens internationally. How has 15 years in New Zealand shaped your style, particularly when it comes to local wine and produce?
I've had the privilege to work with some incredible suppliers over my time, and it's really solidified for me the importance of keeping things local. I love the idea of working with farmers and growers who have been on the land for generations, who know the area, and know everything there is to know about their produce. I like working with the best of the best, and that includes our suppliers.
For diners new to boutique wines, what’s your advice for tasting and appreciating these special releases?
Keep an open mind. You might think you're not a fan of a particular varietal, but these wines are truly something special, and it's worth tasting them without prejudice. A food and wine pairing is a great way to delve into wine tasting, as you can experience how wine changes the taste of food, and vice versa, so you can get a true appreciation of the complexities.
You’re introducing some dishes that haven’t been seen on Esther’s menu before. Can you give us a little teaser of what guests might discover?
Expect a mix of old favourites, new dishes and a twist on classics. For the Bilancia menu, it's inspired by all things Italian - think pizetta, ravioli, carpaccio and zuppa inglese.
Was there a particular wine from Bilancia, Radburnd, or Herzog that really challenged you in terms of creating a pairing?
The way we do our menus at Esther is that it is all family-style, designed to be shared, which is a bit unusual for a traditional wine-paired dinner. The benefit, however, is that you have multiple dishes as part of each course, which gives flexibility with the wine pairing and gives the opportunity for different flavour profiles within each course.
What’s your personal favourite wine and food pairing of all time, not just from Crushed Grapes?
For a celebration, champagne and caviar. For a weeknight, roast chicken and chardonnay can't be beat.
Is there anything you think Remix readers should know about Crushed Grapes, Esther, or your philosophy on food and wine, or anything you wish I’d asked you?
Just that guests should throw what they think a 'wine dinner' is out the window - get ready for an intimate chat with friends old and new, with interactive elements like blind taste testing (those with a good nose can even take home an Esther voucher) and a night of excellent food and wine.
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