Diversifying Sabato De Sarno’s “Ancora” manifesto, Gucci’s Fall Winter 24 menswear collection debuted at Milan Fashion Week. Blending together to express the jubilance, passion and irreverent glamour found in humanity, De Sarno employed hints of red, blue, green, and neutrals throughout the collection. With the Italian word “Ancora” translating to “again”, De Sarno told a tale that encompasses the entirety of existence, retold with a focus on the exuberance it holds. Altogether, De Sarno’s collection presents notes of the timeless men's attire merged with elements of sexy and chic, harmonising to captivate a diverse clientele.
Head-to-toe Ancora red attire tells a tale of lavishness, lust, and desire, featuring school-like backpacks splashed with Gucci’s classic monogram print and patent loafers to match. Loose, long, and low hanging neck ties, finished with collar-like fastening, re-imagine the traditional working man’s ensemble. Together these stand-out accessories, inclusive of distinctive sunglasses, acknowledge the theme of sensuality that influenced the collection.
De Sarno’s meticulously crafted sleek, boxy, and well-tailored shapes, incorporating sharp corners and edges enveloped exposed chests. Flashes of muted lime green took the runway in the form of a boxy utilitarian bomber, vibrant gloves, and generously sized leather shoulder bags to match, manifesting the spontaneity and euphoria of De Sarno’s collection.
Horsebit loafers featuring creeper soles were paired with a patent burnt-orange ensemble, pulling De Sarno’s narrative of “a party at the first light of day” into the beaming white light of the runway. Floor-length, oversized trench coats and full-length vests also trailed the runway, reinforcing the chic timelessness of silhouettes familiar to most.
After assuming leadership at Gucci, De Sarno articulated his vision, “To rekindle people's love for Gucci." This collection indeed achieved this, imprinting his influence on the house by creating designs that strike a balance between familiarity and experimentation, drawing inspiration from the past to shape the present. Altogether, the “Acora” collection has reinforced De Sarno’s commitment to refined sophistication, marking a shift from almost a decade of nostalgic and wistful maximalism at the Italian fashion house.